VALENÇA, PORTUGAL’S FORTRESS TOWN ON THE RIVER MINHO

Like most visitors, the the first time I went to Valença do Minho I made a beeline for the fortress. It is, after all, where you’ll find the best views and architecture. Plus a whole load of gaudy towels and linens on the main shopping street!

Valença, beyond the shops

Unless you’re going to Valença specifically to buy sheets or tea towels, I’d venture away from the textile shops as quickly as possible. Off the main street, the atmosphere is calmer and you’ll soon discover small squares and churches as you roam around the walled settlement, spread over two hills within the fortress.

Medieval window, Valença Medieval window, Valença

Valença’s fortress

During the Middle Ages Valença’s hilltop position and privileged view over the River Minho were vital to protecting Portugal from invasion by its northern neighbours. Valença was besieged several times by Spanish and French troops but managed to keep them at bay.

The original 13th century structure was fortified in the 17th and 18th centuries with pointed bulwarked walls and moats that surrounded the old town. As you walk around the grounds of the fortress, you’ll start to appreciate why it was so successful at resisting attacks by both Spain and France.

You’ll also get fantastic views of the River Minho and across into Galicia. The attractive hilltop town on the other side of the water is Tui.

Fortifications, Valença Fortifications, Valença

Bridge to Tui

The main access to Tui and the rest of Spain lies to the east of the fortress. The international road and rail bridge across the River Minho was built in 1879, once invasions had become a thing of the past. Inspired by Eiffel (as in Tower), the metal structure is quite something to drive though. Or to walk across as I did on the Portuguese Way of St. James.

Road bridge between Valença and Tui Road bridge between Valença and Tui

Cross-border cooperation

Once bitter enemies, Valença and Tui now actively cooperate to encourage their tourists to use this bridge and pop across the river to visit both cities. Since each offers tantalising views of the other and they are only 3 km apart, most people need little persuasion. In July and August, cross-border visits are made even easier with a special tourist train.

Tui and the River Minho Tui and the River Minho

in Julie Dawn Fox